The nose shows enticing aromas of ripe apples cinnamon and brioche. On the palate this shows as a a rich and well balanced wine with a melange of flavours competing for attention - apples grapefruit yeast and a hint of toffee. The finish is long and persistent.

Sous Bois literally means under wood and that is what Billecart-Salmon have done with their latest release the Brut Sous Bois. The wines used to make the final blend have all been vinified entirely in oak in a return to the original way the Champenois used to make their champagne. Vinifing and ageing in oak gives the wines extra body and texture as well as toasty notes.

"A baby brother to Clos St-Hilaire, 100% barrel-fermented. One-third of each variety from selected parcels – older, lower-yielding parcels tend to be chosen for the Sous Bois. 52% grand cru grapes, 16% premier cru (across the whole portfolio; their Meunier isn’t grand or premier cru). One-third reserve wine. Malo blocked. Long lees-ageing (6–7 years). Slightly oxidative style – the most oxidative they make.
A richer mouthfeel as well as real bite. A savoury and yeasty note on the nose – almost slight Marmite (yeast extract). The oak is very well integrated and just frames the wine – the subtle note of spice comes in on the finish – slightly cedary note? Drink 2021 – 2036.
17+ points."
(Alistair Cooper MW, JR Purple Pages, October 2021)

"Based on the 2014 vintage, the NV Brut Sous Bois derives from old vines, most of which are massale selections, vinified in old barrels. Wafting from the glass with aromas of green apple and crisp white peach mingled with freshly baked bread, buttery pastry, toasted nuts and flowers, it's medium to full-bodied, taut and chalky, with a crisp core of fruit underpinned by a tangy spine of acidity. A serious, tightly wound wine, even after seven years sur lattes, it will reward a bit of additional age on cork. Drink to 2040.
92+ points."
(William Kelley, The Wine Advocate, August 2022)

"Attractive nose of brioche, walnuts, salted almonds and baked apples. Some nutmeg. Lovely richness of flavor yet so bright, medium-bodied, with a salty freshness and very fine bubbles. Excellent length. 2016 base vintage with 26% reserve wines going back to 2006. 2.9g/L dosage. Drink now."
94 points. James Suckling, jamessuckling.com (August 2024)