Domaine Jamet – The Master of Côte-Rôtie

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Rhône,

An account from the JN Team’s visit to Domaine Jamet in January 2023

No trip to the northern Rhône would be complete without visiting legendary Côte Rotie producer and our partner of the last decade, Domaine Jamet.

As we ascended the famous “roasted slope” from the town of Ampuis, via a winding, vertiginous road that snaked through the crags and ravines intermittently tamed by terraces of staked vines, the true, stark majesty of this appellation became immediately apparent.

It’s testament to sheer human grit and endeavour that these unforgiving slopes were ever deemed suitable for agriculture, and yet it’s almost always the most unyielding and indomitable landscapes that give way to the most sensuous and exhilarating wines.

As we retreated from the impending dusk into the warmly lit reception of the domaine, nestled on a high plateau above the slopes, we were soon greeted by Jean-Paul Jamet and his wife Corinne.

Jean-Paul began his winemaking career alongside his father over forty years ago, and now he works alongside his son, Loïc.

A steely, strong character (you’d have to be to work these vineyards!) he quietly led us down to his deep, utilitarian cellars which were full to the brim with large foudres.

One quickly gets the impression that – while humble and unadorned – this domaine is a serious operation, run by a bona fide master of his craft that pays no heed to pomp nor plenitudes.

 

We spent nearly three hours tasting through Mssr. Jamet’s newly bottled 2021 Condrieu, Côtes-du-Rhônes rouge and blanc, Syrah, and of course Côte-Rôties, as well as the 2022s still in barrel - sampling from cask of over a dozen lieu-dits of Côte-Rôties alone, concluding with a trio of 2020s (including a Côte-du-Rhône Équivoque, one of the stars of the show!) that showed how these wines knit together with time in bottle.

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No superlatives suffice in description of the unfettered translations of terroirs from Jean-Paul’s numerous sites across the historic Côte-Rôtie appellation; their intensity and minerality balanced by his mastery of whole bunch fermentation, imparting a signature lift and spice to these complex, concentrated wines.

The Condrieu Vernillon – made by Loïc since 2015, and who joined us later in the tasting - offers a more elegant take on the appellation, while the Côtes-du-Rhônes and Syrah cuvées give unparalleled quality for their price.

We cannot thank Jean-Paul, Corinne and Loïc enough for their time and generosity. It’s always humbling and heartening in equal measure to watch a true maestro at work. Merci!

Tasting notes for current/upcoming vintages below:
WHITES
Côtes-du-Rhônes Blanc 2021
Marsanne, Grenache Blanc, Viognier, and Roussanne, produced from different plots on schist/clay-limestone around Ampuis. Fermented and matured in a combination of barrique and steel. A truly inviting nose of white flowers and honey. The palate shows good acidity – balancing the ripe, white fruit – with a hint of lime on the end. Beautifully poised.
Côtes-du-Rhônes Blanc 2022
Barrel sample. Really intriguing nose – almost red-fruited. White flowers again, accented by blackberry hints. Leesy and rich, and very alluring (and quite surprising) at this embryonic stage. A sign of a riper vintage?
Condrieu Vernillon 2021
Viognier grown on granite. Ageing mainly in clay jars. A more subdued nose than the CdR, but with perhaps more refined notes of bergamot and orange blossom. Wonderful purity on the palate, with a touch of something waxy balancing the acidity in this cooler year. Some riper fruits emerge with air, including nods to lychee. “10+ years ageing is possible”, says Jean-Paul. Really beautiful.
CDR & IGP REDS
Syrah 2022
Stunning nose – riper than the 2021. Blackberry and something sweet, almost molasses-esque, remarked upon by a few tasters. Classic brambly fruit and cracked black pepper on the palate, with a touch of sweet rose. Broader with more structure and tannin than the 2021, suggesting longer term drinking. A great success.
Côtes-du-Rhônes Rouge 2022
100% Syrah grown on schistous plots: Lézardes, Cognet, Plomb, Champrond, Tartaras – on the upper slopes above Ampuis, near Côte-Rôtie. Destemmed and aged in old oak for 12 months. An attractively full and earthy nose – masses of damson fruit, black pepper and coldsmoke. A round, enveloping palate with impressive tannins. More concentration than the 2021 – plummier and more savoury still, finishing saline and piquant. Excellent.
COTE-ROTIE
Côte-Rôtie 2021
100% Syrah from twenty parcels, mainly on various types of schist. Whole bunch fermentation, long maceration, followed by 22 months of maturation in barrels (15% new). Breath-taking nose; wafts of violets, graphite, bonfire, and cassis. A sweet treacle element too, but not sickly – framed by the earth, smoke, and flowers. The palate is the perfect embodiment of ‘iron fist, velvet glove’ – a core of powerful fruit and tannins, as if hewn from deep rock within the earth, beamed onto the centre of the tongue, while flecks of blood orange and tart raspberry enliven the edge of the palate. Each characteristic of the individual terroirs sings together in unison – an ethereal wall of sound that’s overawing. I concluded my tasting note with, “no further words needed”. Quite!

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